Nickels are one of the easiest denominations to hunt: you’re mostly just looking for anything dated prior to 1960 (Liberty Head “V” Nickels or Buffalo Nickels), plus War Nickels (35% silver) dated 1942 to 1945.
Many, many Buffalo Nickels have dates worn completely off. Even without a readable date, they can often be sold for more than face value, or the date can be revealed at home using a Nic-a-Date date restorer.
🔷 One-Glance Nickel Hunting Cheat Sheet
Want the full checklist in one place, with every doubled die, leg variety, and low-mintage date? Head over to our Nickel Errors & Varieties cheat sheet for the complete quick-reference list.
On This Page
🏛 A Brief History of U.S. Nickels, From a Hunter’s Perspective
Liberty Head “V” Nickel (1883–1912)
The oldest nickel design you’ll realistically encounter in a roll. By the time these turn up they’re heavily worn, but any find from this era is a genuine treat, and worth pulling regardless of condition.
Buffalo Nickel (1913–1938)
Struck for just 25 years, the Buffalo Nickel is famous for soft strikes, worn dies, and a long list of doubled dies and leg varieties, most notably the legendary 1937-D “3-Legged” Buffalo. Dates are often worn away entirely, but even a dateless Buffalo nickel is worth pulling.
Jefferson Nickel & War Nickels (1938–2003)
The Jefferson design has run since 1938 with one notable wartime detour: from 1942 to 1945, nickel was needed for the war effort, so the Mint switched to a 35% silver alloy, identifiable by a large mint mark placed above Monticello on the reverse. These “War Nickels” are the single best thing to watch for in this entire denomination.
Westward Journey & Modern Jefferson (2004–Present)
2004 and 2005 brought the Westward Journey series, temporary reverse designs commemorating the Lewis and Clark expedition, before returning to a modernized Jefferson design in 2006 that’s still in production today.
🔎 What to Look For
- Any date 1960 or earlier – Buffalo and early Jefferson nickels are always worth a closer look.
- 1942–1945 with a large mint mark over Monticello – a War Nickel, 35% silver, automatic pull.
- A dateless Buffalo Nickel – still sellable for more than face value, or restorable with a date restorer.
- 1937-D Buffalo Nickel – check closely for the famous 3-Legged variety.
- Doubling on the date or lettering – a real doubled die can be worth well above face value.
⚖️ Metal Composition
| Era | Composition |
|---|---|
| War Nickels (1942–1945) | 56% Copper, 35% Silver, 9% Manganese |
| Buffalo & Jefferson Nickels (all other years) | 75% Copper, 25% Nickel |
Bench tip: War Nickels are the only nickels worth weighing, they’re slightly heavier and visibly duller than standard copper-nickel issues once you’ve seen a few side by side.
🪙 Buffalo Nickel Errors & Varieties
Buffalo Nickels produced one of the most famous varieties in all of U.S. coinage, along with a long tail of doubled dies and repunched mint marks. For the complete date-by-date list, see the cheat sheet, here are the highlights:
| Year | Variety | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1937-D | 3-Legged Buffalo | Over-polished die removed one of the bison’s front legs. The single most famous Buffalo Nickel variety, always check 1937-D nickels. |
| 1913 | DDO & DDR | The first year of the design already produced doubled dies on both sides. |
| 1918/1917-D | Overdate | A 1917 die was re-punched with 1918, leaving a visible overdate. A major, well-known variety. |
| 1936-D | DDO & DDR | One of the stronger, more collectible later doubled dies in the series. |
Most Expensive Nickel Ever Sold: the 1913 Liberty Head Nickel, struck under mysterious circumstances with only five known examples. One specimen sold at auction for $4.56 million. You will never find one in a roll, Buffalo Nickels replaced the Liberty Head design that same year, but it’s the crown jewel of nickel history.
✨ Interesting Facts About Nickels
- The nickel is the only current U.S. coin still named for its metal content, even though it’s mostly copper.
- War Nickels are the only regular-issue U.S. coin with a mint mark on the reverse above Monticello, including a “P” for Philadelphia for the first time in U.S. history.
- Only five 1913 Liberty Head Nickels are known to exist, and none were officially authorized by the Mint.
- The 1937-D 3-Legged Buffalo was caused by a Mint employee over-polishing a die to remove a clash mark, accidentally erasing an entire leg.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
What is a War Nickel and how do I spot one?
A nickel struck in 35% silver from 1942 to 1945 due to wartime metal shortages. Look for a large mint mark above Monticello on the reverse, that’s the giveaway.
Are all Buffalo Nickels valuable?
Not automatically, most are worth a small premium at best in worn condition. But specific varieties like the 1937-D 3-Legged Buffalo, and any well-preserved or fully-dated example, can be worth significantly more.
My Buffalo Nickel has no visible date, is it worthless?
No. Dateless Buffalo Nickels still sell for more than face value to collectors, and the date can often be restored at home using a product like Nic-a-Date.
Can I still find silver nickels in circulation?
Yes, though it takes patience. War Nickels (1942-1945) still turn up in rolls and pocket change occasionally, they’re one of the more realistic silver finds in modern coin roll hunting.
🧠 Fun Quiz: Do You Know Nickels?
Answers to every question below can be found somewhere in the guide above, see how many you can get right!
Conclusion
Nickels reward a quick eye more than deep research: check the date first, flip anything from 1942–1945 to check for the large War Nickel mint mark, and take a second look at every 1937-D. The target list is short, but the payoff, especially with War Nickels, is genuinely worth the habit.